The joist bay is then insulated from underneath, preferably with a radiant barrier. Good installations use formed aluminum plates to conduct the heat away from the tubing and into a larger cross-sectional area of the subfloor. The PEX tubing is stapled either to the underside of the subfloor or to the sides of the joists, two runs per joist bay. What the OP is referring to is a "staple up" radiant floor installation. RE: In floor heat system - Passive heat exchange problem Darken99 (Mechanical) 6 Feb 07 17:08 We are looking at going back on the builder and installer to have them remove the ceiling deck and insulate all domestic and sewer lines.Īny thoughts and advice is greatly appreciated. Is there any design and installation guidelines that should have been followed to prevent these problems. May be funny but frustrating.)Ī secondary problem is the shower p-traps dry out in just a few days and there is the escape of sewer gas. (The funny side is the kids don’t know if they are turning on hot or cold water, and the toilets never sweat. This is a great waste of energy, they are heating water passively that they don’t want and then having to waste water to get the water they need. 104F) from the line before the cold water is present.
They need to run the water for a long time to void the hot water (approx. The problem is that when they take a shower or want a drink of water there is no cold water in the domestic cold water supply. Hot water is circulated through the tubes to create a warm floor and to heat the upper story. The house is built with plastic tubing run between the floor joists and the basement ceiling deck.
The home is new and this is the first winter use of the in floor heat system. I am working on a house that appears to be experiencing a passive heat exchange problem.